Tuesday, February 17, 2009

♡Historical Draped/Tailored Garments ♡







Tailored Garments






Since the mid-17th century, a formal habit for riding sidesaddle usually consisted of:
A tailored jacket with a long skirt (sometimes called a petticoat) to match
A tailored shirt or chemisette
A hat, often in the most formal men's style of the day (since the Victorian era, a top hat with a veil has been worn)









Circa 1796-1806 Lewis & Clark Era Front Closing gown.

The pattern was pulled, with permission, from the extant garment in the Wayne County Historical Museum in Richmond, Indiana. It is a day dress.
Illustrated instructions for sewing the garment by hand are included, however, this is an easy garment to sew by machine.
The bodice is conservatively cut yet it has the fashionable small back of the period. As a result of the small back the sleeves form the shoulders, creating a very comfortable fit. Drawstrings fasten the center front closed at the neck and waist. The bodice is lined. The front lining is loose from the armholes to center front. It crosses over and fastens at center front with straight pins. This front lining does not support the bust. It is to help hold the front closed. A corset is worn with this garment.

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Vintage 1950s Pattern, Tailored Dress in 2 Styles
Vintage 1950s Pattern, Tailored Dress in 2 Styles. Dress has forward shoulder seams with pleats at upper and lower edge of bodice front. Skirt is seven-gored, belt is optional. Contrast bands and buttons down the front trim dress in View 1. Flaps trim side-seam pockets. Front closing View 2 buttons to hipline with a pleat below. Saddle-stitching trims collar and cuffs of three-quarter length sleeves. Pattern and instructions are in good, used condition. Envelope shows some wear and tear.





Historical Draped Garment








The last type of Egyptian Costume is the Shawl Draped Style and its variations. These styles have a strong resemblance to Indian sari styles of today. Their beauty lies in draping a simple rectangle of usually bordered fabric, in an artistic and ingenious manner.
The best Egyptian costumes radiate draperies emanating from one main point - the knot. Many of you will be familiar with aspects of this technique from tying a beach sarong. From that experience you will realise that the softness, or the stiffness, creates a different final look. Also sometimes just moving the position of the fabric length a few inches, makes it look more Egyptian.





By 1880 the two ideas merged and the whole of the dress was in Princess line style with shoulder to hem panels. The silhouette was slim and elongated even more by the train. No bustle was needed for the cuirasse bodice or Princess sheath dress, but a small pad would have helped any trained fabric to fall well.
Left - The cuirasse bodice of 1880 reached the hem actually becoming the princess panel dress. It made an exceptionally form fitting draped sheath dress which was elongated even further by the train.









New York designers went for every decade, including the '20s in this draped dress by Donna Karan.


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