♡Historical periods in order to create the genealogy of one garment from the list providedn for Heels ♡

High heels have had a rich and diverse history around the globe. To understand the cultural and historical significance of the now infamous 'Manolo,' it is useful to examine the origin of shoes, the introduction of the high heel, and the high-heel/stiletto's various incarnations throughout the years.

http://www.dropkickthepunks.com/information-18734-A-History-Of-Heels.html

4000 B.C. Earliest depiction of shoes (flexible leather pieces held in place by string) in ancient Egyptian paintings on murals and tombs. In later years, elevated heels would become popular among Egyptian butchers so that they would not step directly in offal. Functionality drives form.

Egyptian Painting where the characters are in shoes

200 B.C. Platform sandals called kothorni, with high wood or cork soles, become popular among Roman tragic actors as an indication of elevated stature. Actors also wore them so that audience members at the back of the stage might see more easily.

1000 A.D. In the tradition of Saxon weddings, the father of the bridge presents the groom with one of his daughter's shoes, symbolizing a transfer of authority over the young girl. The same shoe is then thrown to the bridesmaids after the wedding; the one who catches it will be next to marry .

1154-1189 King Henry II of England popularizes shoes with narrow, pointed toes, allegedly to hide his own toe deformities.

Chopine Shoes with an ornate design, likely for an upper-class Italian woman

Circa 1500 Shoes begin to be made in two pieces, with a flexible upper half (typically made of leather) attached to a heavier, stiffer sole. This leads to the introduction of the heel, devised as a mechanism to keep the horse rider's foot in the stirrup. Heeled boots for men quickly become popular.

1533 Short-statured Catherine d'Medici, an Italian bride married to the Duke of Orleans at the age of 14, wears shoes with two-inch heels to her wedding to compensate for her height. It is rumored that the modern high heel was invented by Leonardo da Vinci (1452-1519).

Mid-1500s An elaborate shoe style called chopines, popular among Italian/Spanish/French women, involves pedestals of cork or wood as tall as 2 feet (!). A Venetian lady wearing chopines needed at least two servants to help her in and out of her gondola.
1553-1558 Mary Tudor ("Bloody Mary"), another vertically-unsatisfied monarch, wears heels as high as they can be made for her. From now until the early 19th century, high heels are stylish for both sexes.

Madame de Pompadour in an ornate gown and her famous heels

1660 French shoemaker Nicholas Lestage designs high heeled shoes for Louis XIV. Some were more than five inches, and most were decorated with various battle scenes. The resulting high "Louis heels" unexpectedly become fashionable for ladies.

1745 Madame de Pompadour, tiny-footed courtesan and the famous mistress of King Louis XV of France, popularizes high, narrow "Pompadour" heels. Ladies tape their feet to reduce their apparent size and squeeze into heels of the Pompadour variety. Many then faint at court from the pain. High heels become essential to a woman's allure but also detrimental to her health, as evidenced by this French couplet: "Mount on French heels when you go to a ball, it is now fashion to totter and fall."

Skyscraper-high platform shoes from the 1970s

1793 Marie Antoinette ascends the scaffold to be executed wearing two-inch heels. In the wake of the French revolution, high heels come to be associated with the opulence. As a result, they are eliminated from the common market for both men and women. Heels become lower than at any other time in the 18th century, symbolizing a repudiation of the wealth and excess that drove the French populace to revolt.

Early 1800s Flat shoes and Grecian-style sandals become popular, again largely due to the ideals of the French Revolution.

1850 Legend has it the high heeled shoe was introduced to the United States in the following manner. A French girl, from the country that invented the high heel, brought the shoes to a New Orleans brothel. The high heels were so attractive to the prostitutes' male clients that the brothel madam made them mandatory. High heels spread though American brothels quickly and then eventually reached the American mainstream.

Circa 1865 The sneaker, a canvas-topped, rubber-soled shoe, is invented for sporting events like badminton and tennis. Ladies' heel heights stay below two inches for the rest of this flat-footed century.

1955 Tall stiletto heels for women's shoes, invented in Italy, become a fashion phenomenon. Shoes with very pointy toes become popular for both sexes.

1970 Manolo Blahnik, a Spaniard with a Literature degree from the University of Geneva and advanced studies in art, moves to London where he befriends Pablo Picasso and through Picasso, Diana Vreeland, then the Editor-in-Chief of Vogue Magazine. Vreeland talks Manolo Blahnik into going into the shoe craftsmanship business after she sees some sketches of his designs.

1972 Manolo Blahnik shoes debut!

1970s The mood of the 1970s is lively and adventurous. The advent of the now infamous miniskirt focuses attention on the legs and galvanizes creative interpretations of footwear. Flowers appear at ankles, as do cutout shapes and appliqués. Ankle boots burst onto the scene, and the look du jour is a "wet leather" texture for footwear. The popularity of the platform shoe soars with the advent of disco culture. Platforms are paired with wildly-patterned prints and bell-bottoms.

1980s Athletic shoes diversify with the introduction of sleek Nike sneakers, which immediately gain popularity. Women start wearing sneakers to work and for commuting.

1998 Sex and the City debuts, bringing Manolo Blahniks into the cultural lexicon and popularizing a Woman's "Right to Shoes"

Carrie Bradshaw with a brand new pair of silver Manolo Blahniks

http://www.dropkickthepunks.com/information-18734-A-History-Of-Heels.html

♡Historical Draped/Tailored Garments ♡

Tailored Garments

Since the mid-17th century, a formal habit for riding sidesaddle usually consisted of:
A tailored jacket with a long skirt (sometimes called a petticoat) to match
A tailored shirt or chemisette
A hat, often in the most formal men's style of the day (since the Victorian era, a top hat with a veil has been worn)

http://images.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia

Circa 1796-1806 Lewis & Clark Era Front Closing gown.

The pattern was pulled, with permission, from the extant garment in the Wayne County Historical Museum in Richmond, Indiana. It is a day dress.
Illustrated instructions for sewing the garment by hand are included, however, this is an easy garment to sew by machine.
The bodice is conservatively cut yet it has the fashionable small back of the period. As a result of the small back the sleeves form the shoulders, creating a very comfortable fit. Drawstrings fasten the center front closed at the neck and waist. The bodice is lined. The front lining is loose from the armholes to center front. It crosses over and fastens at center front with straight pins. This front lining does not support the bust. It is to help hold the front closed. A corset is worn with this garment.

http://images.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://www.sewingcentral.com/images/

Vintage 1950s Pattern, Tailored Dress in 2 Styles

Vintage 1950s Pattern, Tailored Dress in 2 Styles. Dress has forward shoulder seams with pleats at upper and lower edge of bodice front. Skirt is seven-gored, belt is optional. Contrast bands and buttons down the front trim dress in View 1. Flaps trim side-seam pockets. Front closing View 2 buttons to hipline with a pleat below. Saddle-stitching trims collar and cuffs of three-quarter length sleeves. Pattern and instructions are in good, used condition. Envelope shows some wear and tear.

Historical Draped Garment

Egyptian Costume Draped Shawl Style Garment

The last type of Egyptian Costume is the Shawl Draped Style and its variations. These styles have a strong resemblance to Indian sari styles of today. Their beauty lies in draping a simple rectangle of usually bordered fabric, in an artistic and ingenious manner.
The best Egyptian costumes radiate draperies emanating from one main point - the knot. Many of you will be familiar with aspects of this technique from tying a beach sarong. From that experience you will realise that the softness, or the stiffness, creates a different final look. Also sometimes just moving the position of the fabric length a few inches, makes it look more Egyptian.

By 1880 the two ideas merged and the whole of the dress was in Princess line style with shoulder to hem panels. The silhouette was slim and elongated even more by the train. No bustle was needed for the cuirasse bodice or Princess sheath dress, but a small pad would have helped any trained fabric to fall well.
Left - The cuirasse bodice of 1880 reached the hem actually becoming the princess panel dress. It made an exceptionally form fitting draped sheath dress which was elongated even further by the train.

New York designers went for every decade, including the '20s in this draped dress by Donna Karan.

♡ 6 social functions of dress ♡

1. Environmental Protection

Lakota dressBuckskin, glass beads, threadCa. 1870

In its basic form, this is a typical dress worn by Plains Indian women. It consists of three assembled parts: the front, the back and the yoke. These three pieces give the garment a T- shape outline. Very likely this dress was made during the winter months, when the cold forced people to stay inside and work on clothing.
This dress is a good example of the great diligence and talent on the part of the women who made it. It is estimated that it took 300,000 small glass beads to complete the decoration.
In February 1934, Ms. Olive Dean wore this dress to a costume ball in Washington, D.C. She was awarded the first prize for the most outstanding costume by the two judges, Anna Ball, Franklin D. Roosevelt’s daughter and Cornelius Vanderbilt, Jr.

http://images.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://blog.hmns.org/

2. Decoration

The Decorative ornament plate shown left has typical Egyptian style

The Decorative ornament plate shown left has typical Egyptian style patterns found on male sash girdles. Remember winged and fanned decoration was a universal feature of Egyptian pattern on dress. Typical characteristic Egyptian elements included the hawk, the beetle, the lotus flower and geometric patterns that were cleverly entwined.
In many ways these all over intertwined repeat patterns are similar to motifs found in other civilisations including Aztec and Celtic forms.The patterns were also used to make beaded networks worn over garments. This meant pattern could be transferred easily to a freshly laundered plain garment.
Above right we have one of the coffin layers of the boy King Tutankhamun. Note that rich intense pattern that could be incorporated into your own collar designs.
Glass and enamel were favourite techniques for decoration in the Land of the Pharaohs. The famous vulture collar laid on the mummy chest of Tutankhamun was primarily inlaid with blue and coral red coloured glass. The glass was possibly of high value as a product in itself in Egyptian eyes and was inlaid into the same solid gold as any other item encrusted with true precious gems. The birth of costume jewellery may have occurred in Egypt.

http://www.fashion-era.com/ancient_costume/egyptian_fancy_dress_4_warrior_men.htm

3. Gender Differentiation

the late Roman Empire, c 300 CE, to the beginning of the Renaissance, c 1500.

Costume Components - Man:

The tunic was the basic garment - a narrow. long-sleeved garment that was worn to the ankle. Early tunics were full, later, more fitted. For the lower classes, it was the everyday working garment. For the upper classes, it was the undergarment for some of the richest clothing in history. The tunic was a derivation of the ancient Roman tunica talaris, or tunic to the ankles. The more active wearer would gird it up to the shins or knees with a thin belt. The sleeve and hem length would change according to the class of the wearer and the weather. The primary fabric was natural linen or wool. Both would be in a plain weave. Silk was also used.
The dalmatic was an over-tunic with shorter, fuller sleeves. Both tunic and dalmatic were decorated with embroidered bands or clavi - a Roman influence - and segmentae, square or circular decorated medallions; later, textiles were patterned all over.
Tunics were belted and, for both men and women, adorned with the pallium - a long, embroidered band that hung from a circular collar.

Costume Components - Women:
A white undertunic was layered under a coloured tunic and Roman-style palla or cloak until 10th century. After the 7th century, double-layered tunics were worn, the undertunic with long, fitted sleeves. The dalmatic replaced the outer tunic, with elbow-length wide sleeves and reaching to the knee.
The highly decorative embroidered pallium, seen in the illustration at left, was a circle of fabric dropped over the head with tabs hanging front and back, .
Hair was usually covered: veils, turbans with a crown, or a padded roll were worn.

http://www.costumes.org/history/100pages/byzantinelinks.htm

4. Group Membership

In 1878, when The Christian Mission became in reality, the newly named Salvation Army, the familiar trappings of The Great Salvation War began to appear. Military terms became standard - church halls became corps; giving in the offering was called "firing a cartridge". Flags, badges, brass bands and uniforms were added together with a military style rank system for its staff. According to the years of service, position level of responsibility in the organisation, trimmings worn on the uniform indicated rank.Even without religious motivation, the wearing of military ceremonial uniforms was widely popular among the working class men in the late 19th century in Britain.

At first these marching Salvationists were anything but uniform, dressed in an odd assortment of clothing and headgear. It took almost two years to standardise Salvation Army uniform, but by the beginning of 1880 a standard navy blue serge uniform was introduced for both men and women. Men wore a high neck tunic with a stiff collar over a scarlet jersey. Their headgear was a military cap with a red band, on which the words The Salvation Army had been worked in gold letters. Women wore long navy skirts, close-fitting high neck tunics with white lace-edge collar. The large black straw bonnet was Catherine Booth's idea. Cheap, durable, protective and solidly unworldly, the bonnet with its red, band and huge ribbon bow became a well known symbol of The Great Salvation War.

It stands for:
A commitment in the war against evil.
As a personal testimony to the wearer's own Christian faith and practice.
And signifies the availability of the Salvationist to anyone needing a helping hand and listening ear.

http://www1.salvationarmy.org/heritage.nsf/36c107e27b0ba7a98025692e0032abaa/4c3fc447c2a9d1fd802568cd0036e695!OpenDocument

5. Ceremonialism

Princess Anne The Princess Royal - Early days

Princess Anne and has often been chided for her dress sense and interest in fashion. The fact is Princess Anne is a classic no nonsense dresser and likes to stick with styles she feels happiest wearing. Those styles work well for her life of meeting people and they also give her years of wear.
She has had an enviable figure for many years and during her engagement to Lieutenant Mark Phillips she was photographed. She revealed herself as a dazzling young woman.
The images of Princess Anne stunned me at the time, yet these same photos of her are often long forgotten probably because she divorced Mark Phillips and moved on to a new marriage.

http://www.fashion-era.com/royalty/princess_anne_1.htm

6. Sexual Enhancement

Rose McGowan's see-through "dress"

Accompanying then-boyfriend Marilyn Manson down the 1998 VMAs red carpet, actress Rose McGowan attempted the Liz Hurley method of career-enhancement by sporting possibly the flimsiest "dress" ever created. Not even Marilyn's latex alien sex fiend outfit, worn later on stage, could upstage her.

http://images.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://www.virginmedia.com/images/rose-mcgowan-gal-mtv.jpg&imgrefurl

♡Definition of fashion source book♡

The term sourcebook is used about many different kinds of books such as collections of core articles (i.e., anthology), bibliographies, biographies, printed archieval sources, directories and so on. There seems to be no consensus in the application of this term.
Fashion source book attempts to redress that balance and provide information that is comprehensive and time saving. The type of information provided ranges from the sort of fabrics and colours used, the period from which an article is derived or simply its function in our lives.
Fashion source book sets out over lots of drawings of garments, accessories and their details, which can be used for reference while designing. Each drawing, which may be a historical, classical, ethnic or inspirational example, is correctly named and fully described in the extensive glossary, thus providing the visual information that is lacking from fashion dictionaries. As much ‘fabric representation’ as possible has been illustrated, on relevant garments, to give an authentic feel and a variety of complex patterns, prints and textures employed using computer graphics tools.